When Glamour UK‘s beauty director, the fabulous Alessandra Steinherr, heard I was about to publish my first book on the history of makeup, she not only wanted to feature it but also asked me if I could come up with a concept for a beauty shoot to celebrate the launch. I thought it might be fun to showcase signature makeup styles of four of the ‘makeup muses’ I feature inFacePaint, but bringing each one right up to date.
The first look above was inspired by enduring fashion and beauty icon Marie Antoinette, with velvety skin and deliberately flushed cheeks. I used theBalm Instain in Lace, a bright hot-pink powder blush, all over the apples of the cheeks blending up to temples, and teamed with shimmery, pinky-lilac eyeshadow (Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in Lavender Lust) and a rosy stained lip (try dabbing on layers of Benefit Benetint). Black liner and lashings of mascara stops the finish becoming too girlie. For a more traditional and costume party take on Marie Antoinette’s signature makeup style, you can watch my video tutorial here.
The second look was all about the eyes, inspired by Egyptian queens like Nefertiti who wore theirs heavily kohled with thick, winged liner. I decided to add pops of colour with a touch of electric blue liner underneath the lash line and a ‘floating line’ in socket. I used Lancôme Art Liner in Vibrant Blue, one of my favourite coloured liners at the moment – it’s super-easy to apply and the pigment pay off is fantastic. Then I applied mascara, but without curling lashes – very unlike me I know, but curling would have changed the shape of the eye and I wanted the liner to look über-clean and precise. I also buffedGuerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Bronzing Powder over cheekbones and temples for a sun-kissed glow.
Next, I wanted to recreate a 1930/40’s Marlene Dietrich inspired look – the ultimate in old Hollywood glamour (perfect for party season!). This called for contoured cheeks and smoky, glossy lids – classic but also incredibly current. I used one of my all-time favourite sculpting powders, Kevyn Aucoin The Sculpting Powder, applying with a very light touch and buffing and blending really well (to avoid those thick, Snickers-bar stripes!). If you’re trying this at home and want more tips, I’ve got a whole film about powder contouring that you can watch here. For eyes, I layered the smoky shades in L’Oréal Paris La Palette Nude all over the lid, buffing out at the socket into a round shape. I dabbed a touch of clear gloss into the centre of the lid and finished with mascara and some individual false lashes at the outer corner. Finally, to create my dark, movie-siren lips, I used Rimmel 1000 Kisses Lip Liner in Black Tulip all over then applied Mac Pro Lip Palette in Editorial Reds on top, using a brush for a perfect finish.
My final look was all about illuminated, ethereal skin, inspired by early Medieval Beauty when radiant complexions reigned. I began by prepping my model Becca’s skin with SK-II Ultimate Revival Cream, massaging it in really well to stimulate lymphatic drainage (any rich, creamy moisturiser would work – it doesn’t have to be expensive). I followed this with Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl, which I decided to use as a primer under foundation (rather than over base, as I normally do) to boost luminosity. I wanted eyes and lips to look subtle, so simply patted in a bit of Charlotte Tilbury Eyes to Mesmerise in Jean, a beautiful shimmering champagne cream shadow, over eyelids and teamed it with a couple of layers of brown mascara – much more subtle than black (I used Lancôme Grandiose in Brun Mirifique). A dab of Aerin Multi Color over lips was the final step.
I had a great day with the beauty team at Glamour UK. I hope you like the makeup – let me know which look is your favourite and I’ll try to film a tutorial of the one that comes out on top! X
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